Ice Scream - Winter Mountaineering in Scotland
I was asked recently if I'd put together an article on Ice Climbing in Scotland, as someone suggested I was an 'expert'. I would humbly suggest that I am but a minnow in the world of ice climbing, but know a trick or two! I'm one of those who believe that we can never be a true expert in our field; every day I spend on the hills (quite a number over the last twenty five years, the last eight of which as a professional) is a learning day to some extent.
I'm often asked by clients why I go to the Scottish hills in winter; cold, wet and windy places. Some of my best days on the hill have been under winter conditions. Unfortunately, most of us only have the opportunity of heading for the hills at the weekend and of course we may experience bad weather on a Saturday or Sunday following five 'working' days of good weather. If you can grab a good day, go for it, the rewards are well worth while, especially in Scotland.
Ice climbing in Scotland demands a lot of us. If it's a quick buzz your after in a 'safer' environment with little effort on your part, go to Chamonix and climb a roadside waterfall.
Ice climbing in Scotland is sometimes difficult to come by, though it is still available and we also have one of the best indoor ice climbing facilities in the world here, in the shape of the Ice Factor. You're more likely to be winter climbing/mountaineering here, which is hard graft, not for the unfit, unprepared, unaware or inexperienced. Often your climb will involve no little amount of walking in deep snow with a heavy sack on your back for a number of miles.
First and foremost, you need to be a mountaineer with a high competence in the usual mountaineering skills of navigation, winter mountaincraft and route finding. Self reliance is a good watchword. You will need to get up before the first sparrow and, sensibly, be at the foot of your climb at first light.
Some of the easier access cliffs don't require this dedication but the longer routes on more remote cliffs will require extra effort, particularly if the climb is long with many pitches or you expect difficult climbing conditions. A late finish is also to be anticipated. Make sure you have a good headtorch and fresh batteries. How many of us have practiced navigation in the dark?
Despite all of the above considerations however, winter is my favourite time of year for climbing and the challenges just make it all the more rewarding.
Perhaps at this stage we should expand a little on what we mean by 'Winter Climbing/Mountaineering.' Ice Climbing, as it's name suggests, is carried out on water ice, where a natural water course has frozen. This usually needs good sub-zero conditions for a number of days.
New ice can be almost 'plastic' in it's consistency, very opaque and easily penetrated with axe and crampons; older ice can be very brittle and shatter quite easily or can be very clear and hard almost as iron with axe picks almost bouncing off. Most of us probably start winter climbing in snow gullies which are easier angled and feel safer being enclosed by rock walls on both sides.
Snow, as with ice, can vary tremendously in it's consistency. You're likely to find very hard nevé which might not even take a booted toe at one end of the scale, right through to very soft new snow or wet mush which swallows your axe and arm right up to your elbow.
Then there's what we call mixed climbing where you are climbing primarily on rock which has a veneer of ice or hoar frost, iced up cracks and some snow on the intervening ledges. Each requires it's own techniques and somewhat specialised equipment; but that's only when you're getting good and start to push things a little.
Technique and fitness are as important to this sport, as any other. Often you'll find yourself perched on the front points of your crampons on near vertical ice with just millimetres of axe and crampon points in contact. Your calf muscles will soon start to scream at you for a rest. Having good axe placements which you can hang straight armed on and crampon points perpendicular to the ice with knees every so slightly bent is a good position.
Place protection, particularly ice screws, at waist level where you will get good purchase. A good basic knowledge of summer rock climbing ropework and belay systems is also important to make that step from summer to winter rock climbing.
Unlike rock climbing where you will likely use the same holds and moves each time you climb the same route, snow and ice climbs can change certainly week by week and often day by day. The challenge of winter climbing lies obviously in the climb itself but also in the big mountain environment and the possibilities that this presents.
Catching the first rays of the sun hitting the surrounding hills as you approach the foot of your chosen crag, axes and crampons biting into good ice with every placement, enjoying the views as your partner climbs all add up to memorable mountain days.
Some key winter climbing venues include:
Ben Nevis - Good for snow/ice climbing mid to late season after a period of thaw/freeze. Dangerous after heavy snow. Mixed climbing is perhaps a little limited.
Creag Mheagaidh - Ice climbing predominates again mid to late season. Dangerous under powder. An early start is a must as it's a long walk in to the crags.
The Cairngorm Northern Corries - Good early or late season. Reliable mixed climbing. Often drier that the west coast venues. Northerly winds can cause spindrift with visibility problems.
Torridon - Can be very variable due to the proximity of the west coast weather systems. Good ice often at altitude.
Glen Coe - Slightly lower lying so conditions can change rapidly. A good variety of climbing.
Scottish weather is very unpredictable in winter so a good deal of flexibility is important and having a bad-weather alternative is always a good idea.
Suggested Reading:
Scottish Winter Climbs published by The Scottish Mountaineering Trust
The Handbook of Climbing by Allen Fyffe & Iain Peter
Scotland's Winter Mountains by Martin Moran
Thanks to Alan Crichton of Mountain Skills for supplying us with this story.
